Yamaha 1300 Tourer - The Yamaha 1300 Tourer Fansite

Installing RSTD Bars

OEM Part #: 1D6-26110-01-00 - HANDLE COMP. (1D6-26110-00-00)

Notes:

• RSTD: Royal Star Tour Deluxe, BTW...


• Drape a towel or blanket over your tank so you DON'T SCRATCH!


• Get yourself a set of metric allen wrenches or use the ones in your
  bike's toolkit. You may be able to get the English wrenches to somewhat
  fit, but you don't want to strip out any bolts by being lazy.


• Instructions include removal and re-use of existing ISO grips.


• Don't be intimidated by the length of these instructions. I went
  into quite a bit of detail..

1. Disconnect the wiring harnesses from the bars. Take a good look at
   these little plastic devices. There is a little retaining lever on the
   bar side of the device that you can push down with a screwdriver and the
   device will slide right off of the pin on the bar. It may be helpful to
   look at the pins on the new bars to get an idea of what you are dealing
   with.


2. Remove the rear-view mirrors by loosening the locking nuts and then
   unscrewing the mirrors from the housings. The throttle-side mirror is
   reverse threaded.


3. Remove the end cap from the throttle grip by taking out the small hex
   screws. Due to the cable length, you will not be able to slide the
   throttle grip off until you loosen the bars later.


4. Remove the end cap from the left ISO grip by taking out the small hex
   screws.


5. Loosen the clutch assembly by loosening/removing the retaining bolt.
   There is only one bolt in this assembly. It does not open up like a
   clam shell and come off of the bar like the switch assemblies will. It
   will not slide off until you loosen the bars later.


6. Remove the two retaining screws from the back of the switch assembly on
   the left side. The switch assembly should come apart like a clam shell.
   Take it off of the bar, put it back together and finger-tighten the
   screws. Just good to keep things together as much as possible.


7. Remove the left ISO grip. This will take some work. Before starting, I
   suggest using some 3" masking tape around the bar, butted up against the
   end of the grip. This will protect the visible part of the bar from
   scratching while you work the grip off. Find a small, flat piece
   of metal like a spark plug gap measurement tool to slide under the
   mounting side of the grip. Push in and out staying as close to the bar
   as possible. Try to work the tool into the grip at least a couple of
   inches. Work the tool all the way around the bar. If you have trouble
   with this, you can try slightly lifting the edge of the rubber grommet
   and spraying some WD-40 under the grip. Allow that a couple of minutes
   to work on the glue and try again. A little patience here will be
   helpful when you go to put things back together. Don't get frustrated,
   the grip will eventually come off. Try to keep it in good shape. Once
   you think you have most of the glue broken away, twist the grip back and
   forth and it should completely separate from the bar and slide off.
   Try not to get too rough with it, as these ISO grips will bend if you get
   too aggressive.


8. Remove the two retaining screws from the brake fluid master cylinder.
   The unit should come apart like a clam shell. Remove from the bar, put
   the front back on and finger-tighten the screws.


9. Remove the chrome cover plate from your instrument cluster. There are 4
   retaining screws, two on each side. Note for replacement that the
   longer ones go to the front of the bike. Once the screws are removed,
   the cover will slide right off by pulling it straight up. Be alert
   here. There are two small metal bushings that insert inside the screw
   holes in the cover for the screws to the rear. They may or may not fall
   out when you remove the cover.


10. Remove the two retaining screws from the back of the switch assembly on
    the right side. The switch assembly should come apart like a clam
    shell. You will see that the throttle cables are connected to the back
    section of the unit. We will come back to that. Set the top of the
    unit and the screws to the side.


11. With the instrument cluster cover removed, you will be able to see the
    two retaining brackets for the handlebars. There is an upper and lower
    screw on each bracket. If you are fairly coordinated you should not
    have a problem removing the bars by yourself. If you are accident prone
    or paranoid get another set of hands on this step. Hold the bars in
    place and remove the 4 screws from these brackets. Note: As you loosen
    these screws, it is best to put a turn on the upper screw, then the
    lower, back and forth so the clasp comes off the bar evenly and you
    don't bind one of the screws. As you loosen these bolts, you will
    arrive at a point where the bars will simply drop. PLEASE KEEP A HAND ON
    THE BARS! Completely remove the screws and note how the clasps
    slide into their locations as you remove them.


12. Slide the clutch assembly off the left side of the bars.


13. Slide the throttle and switch assembly off the bars. If you take a
    little care here to keep everything together in your hand, the throttle
    cables will not come out of the switch housing and you can slide right
    back on the new bars. If the throttle cables do come out, there is a little trick to
    getting the throttle back into the switch housing with the cables
    attached that makes things a lot easier. It's pretty easy, but hard to
    explain. Place the retaining ends into their recepticals in the housing
    while holding the throttle at a 45 degree angle to the housing. At this
    angle, the throttle will slide into the housing with the cables
    connected. Once the throttle has cleared the edge of the housing, you
    can rotate the throttle down to its final position with no
    problems.


14. Take a breath! You're half way there! As you install things,
    just make sure the cable runs are not twisted, etc. and look like they
    are properly positioned to be reattached to the bar when you're
    done.


15. Place the new bars in their general position on the bike.


16. Slide the throttle and switch housing onto the right side of the bar.
    You will note that there is a dimple (hole) in the back side of the bar.
    There is a "pin" in the back side of the switch housing that should go
    in this dimple. Others have not had issues here, but mine would not
    reach the dimple. Do not force it. If yours will not reach, note
    approximately how far away the pin is from the dimple and take the
    throttle back off of the bars. There is a plastic spacer inside the ISO
    throttle grip that you will need to work out of the unit with a long
    screwdriver. If you shine a flashlight into the grip, you can see it.
    You should be able to manipulate it a bit from the hole in the outer end
    of the grip as well. It should not be glued and should slide right out
    of the inside of the grip. Cut away the same amount from the spacer
    that you noted you were short between the pin and the dimple and insert
    the spacer back into the grip, pushing back down to its original
    position. Slide the throttle assembly back onto the bar, making sure
    the pin now reaches the dimple. The fit here should be good enough that
    the throttle is not bound in any way and operates smoothly.


17. Install the front of the throttle switch assembly and tighten.


18. Slide the clutch assembly onto the left side of the bar. Do not tighten yet.


19. Center the bars and position visually (best guess as to where you want
    them). Install the retaining clasps for the bars, again using the back
    and forth so the clasps move onto the bar evenly. When tight, you want
    the slight gap in the clasps to be the same on bottom and top. Just
    tighten enough to hold the bars firmly in place.


20. Install the switch assembly on the left side but do not tighten yet.


21. Clean up any residual glue from the rubber grommett on the ISO grip and
    install the grip on the left side. I used elmers glue and it works
    great. Before you glue, slide the grip on the bar to position properly.
    Put a piece of masking tape on the bar at the end of the grip. This
    will mark the desired position on the bar so you know you have it all
    the way on when you start glueing. Slide the grip back off of the bar.
    Coat about 2" of the bar from the masking tape toward the end with glue
    all around the bar. Slide the grip on the bar until the end of the grip
    reaches the masking tape. Twist the grip around a bit to evenly
    distribute the glue and position the grip as you like it. Remove the
    masking tape and clean up any excess glue.


22. Position the left side switch assembly about 1/8" from the end of the
    grip. This will create a similar gap betwen that switch assembly and
    the grip as you have between the throttle and switch assembly on the
    right side. Note the visual angle of the switch assembly on the right
    side and try to match it on the left side. Tighten the retaining screws
    on the switch assembly.


23. Position the clutch assembly and tighten the retaining screw. You will
    notice a slight little, etched dot on the bar (actually there are
    several to mark the locations of the various assemblies, but this is the
    only one that helped me a little). If you position the clutch assembly
    where that dot is visible in the center of the hole for the mirror, the
    clutch will be well positioned in relation to the grip.


24. Sit on the bike and evaluate the bar position. If you are not a
    long-time rider and aren't quite sure about where they should be, you
    will want them at a height that allows your hands to be slightly below
    your elbows. This is the ideal position as it will give you the best
    control of your bike and prevent your hands from going to sleep due to
    lack of blood flow. If you need to move the bars, loosen the retaining
    clasps just enough to allow the bars to move, reposition the bars and
    tighten the screws. Repeat until happy. Ensure there is enough
    clearance from the tank at full turn that the wire harness clasps will
    not strike the tank. Now firmly tighten the retaining bolts.


25. Install the brake fluid master cylinder, position roughly an inch from
    the switch assembly, and such that the cylinder is as level as possible
    with the bike standing straight.


26. Install the end caps for your grips.


27. Install the mirrors, position properly and tighten the locking nuts.


28. Attach the wiring harnesses to the bars.


29. You may want to take the bike for a short spin around the neighborhood
    to evaluate the bar position prior to putting the instrument cluster
    cover back on. Just in the event you need to adjust a bit more.
    Install the instrument cluster cover. Be careful with those little
    bushings as you put it back on.