Yamaha 1300 Tourer - The Yamaha 1300 Tourer Fansite

Almost everyone who has purchased one of these has raved about how well it works, so I figured, what the h*ll, I’ll give it a shot (eating is way overrated, anyway).

NOTE: You’re going to be messing with the fuel tank and working around the engine, so it will make things easier if it’s not full of gas and the engine is cool. :)
Also, I put my bike back together as I finished each part. You may want to wait until you have connected everything and made sure it works before putting yours back together.

I installed the closed loop version. Thanks to kb9qft, who found a youtube video of someone installing the open loop version. The process is almost identical:
http://1300tourer.com/node/1628

So, let’s see what it takes to install it!

What You’ll need:
12mm socket or wrench
5mm hex tool
2mm hex tool
Phillips head screwdriver

Optional:
Torque wrench

This is what comes in the box:

I was surprised at how small the module is. Here it is in comparison to my car alarm remote:

Here’s the unit itself, with its cables:

OK, let’s get down to business. Remove the seat by unlocking it with the key. The rear of the seat fits into a slot in the back, so pull forward on it a bit to get it out. I’m sure you’ve done this before:

Here’s underneath the seat:

The cobra fuel module will be installed by the battery, so just set it here loose for now. You'll be running the wires from it from this location.

You’re going to be lifting up the fuel tank. Remove the two 12mm bolts holding it to the frame:

Disconnect the black wire(low fuel sensor) that runs down the right side of the tank(exhaust side) by pressing the tab underneath the connector and pulling apart(my index finger is on the tab):

Here’s the sensor wire disconnected. You can see the tab easily here:

Prop up the fuel tank with something. It won’t go up a lot, but you only need enough space to get your hands underneath.

Locate the white fuel injector connector. It’s towards the front on the left side. It has the red bar in the photo:

Disconnect the fuel injector connector by pressing on the tab and pulling apart (you can see the tab on the top of the left part):

Run the white connectors from the Cobra fuel module underneath the seat latch and between the fuel lines, then up to the fuel injector connector:

Plug the cobra connectors into the existing fuel injector connectors:

Tuck everything up underneath and out of the way:

Put the fuel tank back down and bolt back into place with the two 12mm bolts. Re-torque to 17ft-lbs if you are so inclined.
Re-connect the black sensor wire on the right side of the fuel tank. You'll hate life later if you forget this!

On the right side (exhaust side) remove the sub-fuel tank cover being held in place by a single 5mm hex bolt. You will have to pull forward to remove the cover, as there are 2 grommets holding it in place:

Here’s the back of cover. You can see where the grommets slide into the slots:

Remove the coolant reservoir cover. It is being held in place by three 2mm hex bolts:

What you see here is the O2 sensor plug. Underneath it is the coolant reservoir cap. Nice location, huh?

Route the cable with the clear connectors from the cobra module down to where the O2 sensor plug is. You can see that I’ve routed the cable around the front of the sub-fuel tank(BTW, for those interested, the fuel pump is inside this thing) and back underneath:

The O2 sensor is being held on the frame by way of a metal tab that the plug slides over. Just pull the whole plug towards the front of the bike and it will slide right off. My index finger is underneath the metal tab afterwards:

To pull the O2 sensor apart, you actually have to work the tab in reverse from the other plugs. You have to PULL the tab upward, NOT push inward(nothing like consistency, eh?). You can see the tab in the right part of the connector:

Plug the cobra connector into the existing O2 sensor connector:

Slide the cobra connector onto the metal tab to hold it in place and tuck the rest out of the way:

Bolt the coolant reservoir cover back on with the three 2mm hex bolts. If you're really fastidious, then re-torque to 5.1 ft-lbs.
Bolt the sub-fuel tank cover back on with the 5mm hex bolt. Again, if you really care about this sort of thing, re-torque to 5.1 ft-lbs.

Remove the tool tray that’s covering the battery. I’ve found that the easiest way is to stretch the rubber band out and then push down to get the metal rectangular shaped ring off of the hook it is looped over:

Velcro the cobra fuel module to the top of the sub-fuel tank (the module comes with a piece of Velcro). There's a clear spot right in front of the negative terminal of the battery that just begs for it to be put there:
(NOTE: Before velcroing the module here, check the comments at the end for an alternate location.)

Remove the NEGATIVE bolt from the battery. The nut underneath is just sitting loose and will fall out, so what I’ve done is double over a piece wire and shove it underneath to hold the nut in place:

Take the wire from the cobra fuel module and connect it to the negative bolt of the battery:

Replace the tool tray back over the battery.

Pop the cover off of the fuel module, exposing the adjustable pots and LEDs:

Now for the fun! Turn the key (don’t start the bike!) and you should see all three LEDs light up briefly:

Then the red & yellow should go out and only the green remains:

START ‘ER UP!!!!! If all went well, she should kick right over and purr like a kitten. :)

Put the cover back on the fuel module:

What are still reading this for???? Put the seat back on and go riding!

BTW, if you are running along and you run out of gas and the low fuel light never came on, you forgot to re-connect the black wire by the gas tank!

Alternate location for the cobra module:

While the directions say to set the module on top of the sub-fuel tank, Kaelar pointed out to me that it's possible that the bottom of the seat can come into contact with the module. He suggests placing it in the tool tray to better protect it and clear the seat. After 250 miles of riding, I took my seat off and looked, and sure enough I see a rub mark on the module casing. While it's most likely perfectly safe on the sub-tank location, it's worth considering moving the module. Thanks go to Kaelar for pointing this out and suggesting the alternative. It's interesting to note that the module height and the tray depth are the same, plus the gap where the rubber band runs is a perfect outlet for the wires.
Here's the module velcroed in the tool tray. You can clearly see the rub line going diagonally across the unit from coming in contact with the seat while it was located on the sub-fuel tank:

Boomer Sooner
Potestatem obscuri lateris nescis